The Magnificent 2024 Geneva and Shanghai Watch Exhibitions
The Genesis and Growth of Geneva Watch Days
In 2020, a decentralized watch exhibition initiated by six renowned brands – Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard – Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., and MB&F – transformed Geneva, the watch capital, into a spectacular watch gallery. This event has since become a highly anticipated annual highlight in the second half of the year, growing in popularity. From 39 participating brands last year, the number has significantly increased to 52 this year. During the exhibition, over 100 new watches were unveiled for the first time. The core concept of this event is to provide watch enthusiasts with a platform to showcase high – end watches and discuss industry trends in a relaxed atmosphere. The exhibition features two aspects: a common pavilion for displaying the latest timepieces of each brand, and private display areas scattered in brand boutiques or hotels, enabling closer and more direct interaction between watch lovers and the brands.
The Dual – city Watch Exhibition Extravaganza in 2024
The Watches and Wonders Geneva Watch Fair is undoubtedly the most magnificent watch exhibition of the year. In the past, after the Geneva and Basel watch fairs, we awaited the arrival of new watches in the market. However, in recent years, watch fairs of different scales and themes have been continuously held in various countries during the second half of the year. In 2024, the 4th Watches and Wonders Shanghai Watch Fair took the stage from August 28th to September 1st. Subsequently, from August 29th to September 2nd, Geneva Watch Days immersed the entire city of Geneva, turning every corner into an exhibition hall, offering an immersive experience of the beauty of watches. Besides exhibiting the new watches released in April at Watches and Wonders, some brands also presented brand – new models that were unveiled for the first time. This report mainly focuses on the international exhibitions held in Geneva and Shanghai, introducing the new watches of the participating brands that were first revealed in the second half of the year in an A – Z brand manner. As of the deadline, the 8th IWST “Ingenuity. Unique” Time Art Exhibition, the largest independent watch – making exhibition in Asia, opened on September 24th. The emergence of these various watch fairs is not only a stage for brands to showcase new watches but also a means for brand representatives and watch – making masters to interact more directly with watch owners and the media, promoting a more 良性 development of the watch industry.
Exquisite Timepieces from Renowned Brands
ARMIN STROM’s 15th – Anniversary Masterpiece
ARMIN STROM, an independent watch – making brand, celebrates its 15th anniversary with the new Dual Time GMT Resonance watch. This watch features the brand’s exclusive dual – escapement resonance structure. Two small dials, with their heavenly – blue color and grenage – grained finish, contrast beautifully with the black azurage concentric – ring scales and polished baton – style hour markers. Beneath each small dial is a hand – engraved day – and – night display disk, and at the bottom are two mainspring barrels. All these structures are arranged in pairs, presenting a harmonious contrast, highlighting the elegant clutch – spring mechanism at 12 o’clock. The 18K white – gold case has a popular 39 – millimeter diameter, making it comfortable to wear for both men and women. ARMIN STROM’s resonance technology differs from traditional watch – making. It employs a patented “clutch – spring” system to transfer vibrations between balance wheels, ensuring precise synchronization of the two balance wheels. This not only enhances the watch’s anti – interference ability but also significantly improves the consistency and accuracy of timekeeping. The newly released dual – time – zone resonance watch has two completely independent time – zone settings, allowing the wearer to adjust the hours and minutes on both dials freely, meeting the needs of global travelers for precise multi – time – zone timekeeping.
ARNOLD & SON’s Lunar Beauty
Arnold & Son’s moon – phase watches make the moon – phase disk a prominent visual focus. The 2024 Perpetual Moon 38 Gold models, including the blue aventurine glass version limited to 88 pieces and the cliff – grey sun – ray – pattern version limited to 28 pieces, feature unique materials that exude elegant light and shadow, interacting charmingly with the large moon on the dial. In most high – end or affordable moon – phase watches, the moon – phase disk is usually located at 6 or 12 o’clock, occupying an area similar to that of the small – second – hand disk, playing a supporting role. However, Arnold & Son’s moon – phase watches stand out with their large – area moon – phase disks. The gold – engraved moon, whether crafted by 3D hand – carving, diamond – studded, or made of mother – of – pearl, uses highly realistic concave – convex techniques to enhance the light and dark textures of the real moon’s surface, as if gathering the moon on the wrist. The hollow window from 10 to 2 o’clock on the dial features a large moon made of mother – of – pearl. The moonlight halo shines on the starry sky, interacting with the Big Dipper. The light – blue mother – of – pearl starry sky contrasts with the main dial in light and dark, adding rich visual layers. The moon is hand – painted with shadows for a more realistic look and coated with Super – LumiNova for a dazzling glow at night.
BVLGARI’s Musical Timepieces
During the watch exhibition, Bulgari presented three outstanding timepieces: the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon, the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon, and the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon. These watches create a musical symphony with their time – telling functions. The Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon and the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon, using the classic Octo Roma case for complex – function watches, are the result of Bulgari’s collaboration with Lorenzo Viotti, a 34 – year – old conductor from Lausanne, Switzerland, who leads the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra, the Netherlands Chamber Orchestra, and the Netherlands National Opera. They jointly created an innovative auditory experience with the tritone, the “devil’s interval,” producing a unique auditory texture. The Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon, made of titanium, features an innovative hollow metal dial. It is equipped with Bulgari’s self – made BVV 800 movement, which can automatically chime the hour and quarter – hour, and also chime the hour, quarter – hour, and minute on demand. In the grand – sonnerie mode, every quarter – hour, four gongs and hammers strike the tune composed by Lorenzo Viotti, making it one of the most complex watches in Bulgari’s history. The Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon, made of rose gold, is equipped with Bulgari’s improved BVL 428 self – made manual movement, featuring hollow bridges, three – hammer carillon, a minute – repeater mechanism, and a tourbillon device, with a 75 – hour power reserve. The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon, the thinnest minute – repeater watch on record, is made of multiple layers of CTP (Carbon Thin Ply). Besides its slimness, it also has solid rigidity. Combining the unique Octo Finissimo design with a complex minute – repeater movement, it can chime the hour, quarter – hour, and minute on demand, demonstrating ultimate craftsmanship.
CZAPEK’s Antarctique Flying Diamonds
Based on the watch – making philosophy of François Czapek, the 19th – century Polish watch – making master born in the Czech Republic, the independent watch – making brand CZAPEK was born in 2015. The Antarctique series, first released in 2020, has been favored by watch fans for its versatile features. This year, the brand highlights the two main features of this series – aventurine dials and diamond hour markers – with the launch of two – size versions of the Flying Diamonds. The Antarctique Flying Diamonds automatic watch features a 40.5 – millimeter – diameter stainless – steel case and bracelet, a sapphire – crystal back cover, and is powered by the SXH5 Czapek automatic movement with a 60 – hour power reserve and 120 – meter water resistance. One of the most significant features of the Antarctique Flying Diamonds series is the dynamic and three – dimensional diamond hour markers that seem to soar above the dial. The Antarctique cut, a new diamond – cutting technique launched in early 2023 and designed exclusively for CZAPEK and patented, has 24 facets compared to the 14 – facet traditional baguette cut, capturing and reflecting light more effectively. The deep and subtle “starry – sky” effect of the aventurine dial complements the brilliant light of the unique Antarctique – cut markers and forms a perfect contrast with the polished cold – tone stainless – steel case. The Antarctique series originally had a 40.5 – millimeter size, and in 2022, a 38.5 – millimeter Antarctique S series was introduced for slender wrists. Both versions are equipped with the brand – developed Calibre SXH5 movement, inspired by François – Czapek’s pocket watches in the 19th century, with its unique seven – piece hollow – bridge structure being particularly eye – catching.
FREDERIQUE CONSTANT’s Elegant Creations
Frederique Constant released three distinctive Century Elegance watches, including an automatic tourbillon with an aventurine dial, a malachite moon – phase – calendar watch, and an elegant square – shaped small – second – hand watch. The new tourbillon watch with an aventurine dial, powered by the self – made FC – 980 – 4 tourbillon automatic movement, features a unique design. Similar to the brand’s previously acclaimed silicon – escapement tourbillon device with its intelligent screw for balancing the tourbillon’s rotation, this new version emphasizes the use of a deep – and – charming – colored aventurine dial to highlight the graceful tourbillon movement. The movement is hand – chamfered, with bridges decorated with circular – grain finishing, flanks satin – finished, and mirror – polished with great refinement. The FC – 716 automatic movement, with longer power reserve and moon – phase and date – indication disks, is based on the FC – 715 movement. After the Watches and Wonders exhibition, the brand launched the latest 18K rose – gold version of the FC – 716 movement. At the Geneva Watch Fair, a new 18K white – gold version with a green malachite dial was introduced. The light – to – dark – green vertical stripes of the malachite dial add a unique and rare natural beauty to this limited – edition watch. Three new models of the Century Elegance square – shaped small – second – hand watch were added, including a diamond – studded version and more affordable steel – case versions with either a bracelet or a leather strap, with a simpler and more refined design.
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL’s SeaQ Chronograph: A Black – and – White Classic
Glashütte Original reinterprets the timeless charm of the SeaQ chronograph with a classic black – and – white minimalist design. The electroplated silver dial adopts the same optical effect as a cinema screen, with a thin silver coating covering the dial to minimize light scattering, creating a sharper contrast than a white background and enhancing the visual effect. On this special “screen” dial, the black hands and the pressure – inlaid hour markers with Super – LumiNova® luminous coating interact beautifully. The 30 – minute counter at 3 o’clock and the small – second disk at 9 o’clock are decorated with “vinyl record” patterns, and the fine electroplated black ring highlights the vinyl – record – pattern design. The large – calendar window at 6 o’clock also features a black background with white numbers for clear and three – dimensional display. The 43.2 – millimeter – diameter stainless – steel case is equipped with a one – way rotating bezel with an embedded scratch – resistant black ceramic insert. The watch has a fly – back chronograph function for precise and rapid short – time measurements. With just a single press, the chronograph second hand can be stopped, reset, and restarted. It is powered by the original Calibre 37 – 23 automatic movement, certified to ISO 6425 and DIN 8306 standards, with a 70 – hour power reserve and a silicon hairspring that is completely unaffected by magnetic fields or temperature changes for more accurate timekeeping. Through the sapphire – crystal case back, one can admire the beautifully decorated three – quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing, chamfered edges, polished blue – steel screws, and a hollowed – out rotor. The new SeaQ chronograph can be paired with a black rubber strap for a sporty look, or with a steel bracelet or an orange nylon – woven strap.
H. MOSER & CIE. and Studio Underd0g’s Collaborative Wonders
H. Moser & Cie. joined hands with the British brand Studio Underd0g to present a creative collision of two distinct styles in the independent watch – making field. The two unique timepieces from this collaboration are H. Moser & Cie.’s Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit and Studio Underd0g’s 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit. These watches are not just time – measuring tools but also design statements that blend elegance and innovation. H. Moser & Cie.’s Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit continues the brand’s minimalist aesthetic, powered by the famous perpetual – calendar movement. The dial features a purple – lacquered radial sunburst pattern on an 18K – gold hammered – texture base, using the “grand feu” enamel technique for a vivid visual effect. The Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit is powered by a Swiss – cam – driven single – button chronograph movement, with an amber – to – purple gradient dial, presenting a contrast between boldness and elegance. Whether it’s H. Moser & Cie.’s understated elegance or Studio Underd0g’s bold innovation, both designs highlight the brands’ focus on uniqueness and craftsmanship. This collaborative watch, with its vivid colors and fruit – inspired imagery, showcases the vitality and creativity of the two brands. Despite the absence of logos, it has high recognition, embodying unique design and exquisite craftsmanship.
HYT’s Liquid – Display Timepieces: A Milestone in Watch – making
In 2012, HYT revolutionized watch – making by integrating fluid mechanics with traditional mechanical watches, setting a new milestone in watch – making history. This year, SHH Taipei 101’s top – tier watch concept store introduced HYT into its high – end brand portfolio. Vahé Vartzbed, HYT’s CEO, personally visited Taiwan and brought the new T1 SERIES “Millésime Edition” launched during the 2024 Geneva Watch Days. The simple dial design and unique new – color dials highlight the brand’s exclusive liquid – display time – telling function, making its debut after the 2024 Geneva Watch Days exhibition. The new T1 SERIES “Millésime Edition” series commemorates the brand’s 12th – anniversary milestone. The T1 SERIES features a breakthrough in size and ergonomic design, providing wearers with unparalleled comfort. The “Millésime Edition” incorporates the neo – classical style into the design, with this series of watches capturing the essence of the autumn – winter season through bold and vivid color combinations, including purple, green, and chocolate, combining fashion and contemporary elegance to the fullest. The dial also has delicate vertical textures, and the satin – finished surface presents unique light – and – shadow effects under natural light, providing visual enjoyment for the wearer. The term “Millésime,” originating from French and usually referring to wines produced in a specific year, makes the T1 SERIES “Millésime Edition” HYT’s annual limited – edition special release, available only from September 2024 until the Watches and Wonders exhibition in 2025.
L’Epée 1839’s Artistic and Whimsical Table Clock
L’Epée 1839, commemorating its 185th anniversary, was inspired by classic 1930s racing cars to launch the T35 table clock during the watch exhibition. T35, short for “Time Fast 35,” is part of L’Epée 1839’s racing series. In a racing car, the driver is the brain of the operation. Inspired by this, L’Epée 1839 designed the escapement of the T35 movement as the “brain” of this table clock. The escapement is protected by a glass dome above, like a helmet commonly used by racing drivers. This glass is hand – blown, cut, and polished by masters, showcasing top – notch craftsmanship. The steering wheel in front of the “driver” is used to set the time. Turning it counter – clockwise adjusts the time, and turning it clockwise repositions the steering wheel after setting the time. The time is ingeniously displayed on the side of the body. The mechanical devices of T35 are all independently developed by the brand, with an 8 – day power reserve. It is wound by rotating the rear wheels, inspired by the pull – back toy cars from childhood. T35 pays tribute to vintage racing cars by incorporating their details into the design, including the long hood, the radiator grille characteristic of 1930s racing cars, large – spoke wheels, a rear – mounted driver’s seat, and a sloping rear design. The T35 body is composed of solid – aluminum parts, and the engine components and chassis are made of stainless steel and palladium – plated brass. Each part is hand – polished, sandblasted, or frosted independently. T35 comes in four colors: French racing blue, British racing green, obsidian black, and Italian racing red (Rosso Corsa), with each color limited to 100 pieces.
