Bonhams Jewellery specialists share their expertise on the enduring appeal of tiaras—the ‘most majestic of accessories’—their history, and why they are still in such high demand today. Illustrated by highlights sold at Bonhams.
1.The Basics
These versatile accessories were in demand from the Georgian period until the mid-20th century. Once mandatory at ceremonial occasions, today they add an extra touch of glamour, without the symbolism they would have held in the past.
“A tiara is a formal head ornament, traditionally worn by women. It is usually bejewelled—made from precious gems and metals—but can also be an item of costume jewellery.”
What distinguishes a tiara from a crown or a coronet is the fact that it is not closed at the back. And they’re not just glamorous accessories; for our specialists, a tiara is “wearable art—the craftsmanship and artistry that goes into them is exquisite”.
2.A Little History
Whilst the earliest examples date from antiquity, it was during the Georgian era that the tiara first came to prominence. From the Belle Époque until the 1930s, when fashion and jewellery reached dizzying heights of glamour and opulence, they were de rigour at all society events. Whilst the style first originated in the courts of England and Europe, it was also fashionable in the 20s and 30s for the aristocracy to wear a tiara to private dinners, balls and the opera.
“A large number of exceptionally beautiful tiaras were created from 1900-1910. However, to find an early 20th century tiara is incredibly rare because many were dismantled for their valuable gems or re-modelled as fashions changed.”
After the Second World War, when rigid social conventions were relaxed, tiaras became less prominent, however they are still worn to some formal occasions today.
3.The Tiara As a Signifier
Tiaras weren’t just a prerequisite of the aristocracy. They were considered a universal indicator of wealth, rank, and marital status, which is why many tiaras were worn by brides. Consuelo, Duchess of Marlborough, was famously rebuked by the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) for not wearing one, says our specialists, “She was attending a dinner in honour of the Prince and Princess of Wales wearing a diamond crescent—not a tiara—in her hair, and he said, ‘the Princess had taken the trouble to wear a tiara. Why have you not done so?’ which illustrates how compulsory they were in those circles.” Of course these days such strictures have loosened significantly, and it is not uncommon to see tiaras being worn by unmarried women, drag queens and duchesses alike.
While a tiara is a head ornament, many examples were designed to be taken apart and worn as necklaces or brooches as well. Tiaras are extremely valuable jewels, so it made sense to make them into versatile pieces that could be transformed depending on the occasion.
4.On The Market
Tiaras are popular among collectors all over the world. They are quite a rarity and often surpass expectations at auction, particularly in America and Asia, ranging from around £1,000 to £500,000 depending on their composition and condition. People love tiaras because they resonate with the glamour and romance of bygone eras, especially if there’s a really interesting story or provenance behind them. Tiaras are relics of social history—it’s exciting to find out who wore it and where they went.
“We’ve sold tiaras which have been worn by various members of the same family but to different coronations for example, and that’s quite thrilling for collectors.”
5.Styles And Stones
While they follow a basic uniform design, tiaras can be made in many styles and materials. “That’s the joy of working in an auction house,” say our specialists. “We see a real range. We’ve sold costume examples from the 18th and 19th centuries, set in gilt metal with either colourless or colourful paste or glass stones, as well as pieces set with large diamonds.”
6.Houses
Of course many other things can contribute to the value of a tiara, including the name of the maker. Throughout history there have been a number of important jewellery houses whose signature can have an impact on the price realised for a piece at auction. During the first decades of the 20th century all the major jewellery houses were producing tiaras. Names like Cartier, Chaumet and Boucheron feature heavily in this field and can often command some of the best prices however unsigned pieces can also be extremely valuable.
7.Do Your Research
Our specialists recommend looking at tiaras in collections such as the V&A in London, the Met in New York and the Schatzkammer in Munich before buying your piece so you can get a feel of the different styles and periods. When you are ready to buy, they advise that “you should always handle the piece yourself”. Go to the saleroom to see a piece, speak to a specialist, and look at different examples. They also recommend trying everything on because, “What you dismissed in the catalogue might look completely different when it is worn.”
8.How To Care For Your Tiara
Once you have acquired your tiara, it’s important to know how to look after it. Our specialists’ top tips for ensuring the piece retains its beauty and value include keeping it in the box when it’s not being worn, and not overcleaning it.
“A lot of people think that if you buy a piece of antique jewellery you need to clean it and remove any tarnish from the metal but we would advise against that.” Attempting to clean your tiara yourself could lead to the loss of the tiara’s patina of age; instead, around once a year, you should take it to a specialist jeweller who can clean it professionally and sympathetically, and check over all the settings.
